EdUKaid

The past month here in Mikindani, was probably the most interesting and festive, a time comparable to Christmas time in Europe.For one whole month during September this year, called Ramadan, the Muslims here (95%) fast. Mikindani and Mtwara become silent and you can only here the bustling of footsteps and grunts. According to Muslim tradition, during Ramadan people should undergo a spiritual journey, limiting their drink, food, and even conversation. Trying to accomplish most things during this time is a bit tricky. The Mottisfont renovation took place during Ramadan, which I would not recommend in the future since you end up with 20 grumpy fundis that stare at you when you attempt to cook yourself lunch. Also, the usually enthusiastic students that come to Mottisfont for extra tuition, stroll in late holding their stomachs accompanied with frowns on their faces. Forget about going out during the evenings or weekends, because you will only hear crickets chirping. Also, during this time I had been asked every single day if I am participating in Ramadan, why I wasn’t, and then given a mini-speech on the evils of my eating behaviour. I must stress: NOT FUN TIMES FOR WAZUNGU (white person in Swahili)!

However, after this tedious and long month, a special tradition called Eid takes place. Eid officially ends Ramadan, and is determined the day before. Usually, there are about 2-3 dates which Eid can be and then just before these days, everyone goes mad estimating when the moon will become full so they can determine exactly which day Eid will be. The night before Eid, the day is finally set and then it becomes public holiday for all! During the first day of Eid (usually lasts 2 days), everyone (and I mean the whole town of Mikindani literally plus relatives) dresses in their best clothes and goes to the centre of town (bus standi) to go people-watching, buy some snacks (sellers come out with a multitude of products: coconut cakes, dry fish, cashews, chips, home-made juice), and hang out and listen to music. At night, CCM (local disco) opens and the chaos begins. Music begins to blare and the first lot of pre-teenage boys goes in to shake their groove thang. Then the injuries and thefts begin. Victim #1: Me! phone and money stolen. Victim #2: Maryjani (owner of Muku’s bar next door) camera stolen Victim #3: Ally Masudi (TradeAid Staff and bouncer that night) hand bitten at the door. Yes bitten. Many fights break out over others wives and such, konyagi flows, and the party goes on unto the wee hours of the morning.

The next day of Eid seems to be less popular. Most money has been spent or stolen the night before and people attend to their injuries and/or hangovers. The next couple of days after that people usually take their own holidays, so don’t show up to school or work due to the labours of Eid. The ones that could afford it had their one-time-a-year meal out at a restaurant or bar, have received sparkling new clothes that hopefully made it through the chaos, and ate sweets that are few are far between. Generosity counts during this festive time as it is the only time the people of the village can enjoy some luxuries beyond their impoverished daily lives. EID MUHBARAK!

Marta Krajinik